Arequipa

Easter in Peru is so different to ours at home. This deeply religious South American country celebrates with devotion, passion and fervour the like of which I have never seen. I'd planned to spend 'Semana Santa' in Arequipa, with much anticipation, and it has more than lived up to my expectations : a once in a lifetime Easter experience.

Maundy Thursday. 

Arequipa's main square, dominated by the stunning cathedral, is the scene for the city's renowned Passion play. A cast of hundreds perform the day's events as told in the Bible in intricate detail to the milling crowds who follow the action around the square.

The Cathedral with volcanoes in the background

For  three absorbing hours the Maundy Thursday story unfolded before me. The passion was on show in every way, including the  tears of many watching at the final crucifixion tableau. My tears too. I cried unashamedly, heightened emotions from tiredness (this being the day of my 5 am arrival, the extra few sleep hours here didn't really make a night full)   plus, I suspect, mild altitude adjustment ,  Arequipa being over 2000m higher than Huacachina.

This was a fascinating, genuinely moving, afternoon. The atmosphere felt a surreal mixture of worship and festival.  Tourists come from all over Peru and South America as well as internationally for the famed Easter celebrations in Arequipa, so we were all ages, all races. I was immensely struck by how happy everyone was, such that despite the crush it was a truly joyous occasion. For once being part of a crowd was a positive pleasure.

Free snacks

Good Friday

A sombre day, the fasting day for Jesus for the faithful. Flags fly at half mast and purple shrouds cover all icons in every church as a sign of mourning.

Icons are covered in purple

At noon I joined the congregation in the Temple of Santa Dominigo as the statue of Christ was lifted onto the cross in front of the shrouded altar. Devout worshippers kept vigil for three hours, I however returned only at 3 pm to see his body lifted down and placed into the casket.

The 7 pm  'funeral procession' , as the holy sepulchre carried high aloft on floats literally lifted by worshippers , plus a sea of brilliantly lit towering  icons and priests in ceremonial robes slowly pass through these historic streets.

'Funeral' procession

This was  an evening I will remember my entire life.  Waiting with my candle in Santa Dominigo, I was welcomed to join in the procession by the congregation, who recognised me from the vigil earlier in the day.
It was a privilege to walk step by step in time with the music, pausing for contemplation and prayer. It was also much easier than being on the outside, simply thousands of people everywhere. Despite imminent danger of burns from the sea of candles, two hours passed in a flash and the evening ended with local food and tea handed round, very welcome!

Crowds on Good Friday

 Saturday of glory, (as it's known here)

Churches and shops are closed. So I discovered Arequipa by walking, another  free walking tour. A guide with a wealth of knowledge about this historic city and an even greater love of his own voice!  Three hours of wandering the streets, over bridges, under arches, into courtyards, in the heat left me feeling well informed, but absolutely exhausted.

Fortunately I had booked my Easter accommodation well in advance so am staying in the charming Casa del Avila, a colonial house where the tiny rooms are more than compensated for by the lovely courtyard garden and a generous buffet breakfast.  So I have had plenty of sustinance and today the gardens came into their own as a lunchtime rest in the shade here eating the remains of my breakfast (cunningly concealed in my rucksack) was just what I needed.

I had also been the fortunate winner of a hot chocolate with cream from one of the chocolate 'museums' during the tour, so that provided a delicious afternoon pick me up. As darkness fell another procession took to the streets, this time the procession of 'our lady of sorrows. Much smaller than last night, but very moving, and .... as incense fills the air I am yet again moved to tears.