Upwards to Puno
Arise at 4 am for the dawn bus to Puno. I feel as if I am becoming nocturnal.
The bus twists and turns over the volcanic range, climbing over 2000 metres. By breakfast stop at a lake 4400 m above sea level I thought I felt fine... until I got off the coach and my legs buckled from the altitude. Luckily only momentarily.
I genuinely did feel fine until we dropped into Puno city, when I felt like something had trapped my head in a vice. Mercifully the agony was short-lived, so bar a mild headache, so far no major altitude issues. Fingers crossed.
Puno, and this hostel, are grim. Puno exists because of the lake, the ugly town sprawls down the hillside towards the water, traffic clogged roads, dusty, busy and genuinely unappealing. Thankfully I'm not here for the city, I'm here for the lake.
Lake Titicaca
Full day tour to the famous floating reed islands of Uros followed by a two hour boat ride to Taquile island, famous for its unique weaving art.
Uros was much more interesting than I expected. Although the islanders now depend on tourism, the tiny huts , around 10 on each reed bed) are still occupied, as evident by the smell! The indigenous people live over 42 of these floating reed islands, now provided with power by solar panels.
They speak Quechua rather than Spanish and seem fiercely proud, keen to demonstrate skills learnt since ancient times. We were taken from one island to another one of the yellow ceremonial canoes, touristy, yes, but all rather fun in a definitely original setting.
Then onwards for a two hour boat ride across the world's largest navigable lake to Taquile island, 45 Kms from Puno. 2000 people still live in this incredibly isolated place. The textile art and weaving practice here is unique, protected by UNESCO, but the intricate patterns too complicated for me to understand.
Lunch was thrown in with the tour (which cost all of 20 quid), in the isle's only restaurant overlooking the shimmering blue waters below. Quinoa soup plus, in my case a sad looking omlette. The locally caught trout was the main dish for the other 10 people...which gave me enough energy for the hours trek across the terraced, arable landscape, past grazing alpacas, sheep and llamas, to catch the boat back.
The sun was setting over the Uros islands as Puno came into sight. Great day in great company, alongside fellow tourists from all over everywhere. Surreal to see how different these ancient indigenous people are physically, I literally towered over them.
And yes, I did genuinely believe in their stated desire to maintain their heritage and traditions, and they are using tourism as a way to do just that, so good for them! Happy to help by my visit 😀.
The bus twists and turns over the volcanic range, climbing over 2000 metres. By breakfast stop at a lake 4400 m above sea level I thought I felt fine... until I got off the coach and my legs buckled from the altitude. Luckily only momentarily.
I genuinely did feel fine until we dropped into Puno city, when I felt like something had trapped my head in a vice. Mercifully the agony was short-lived, so bar a mild headache, so far no major altitude issues. Fingers crossed.
Puno, and this hostel, are grim. Puno exists because of the lake, the ugly town sprawls down the hillside towards the water, traffic clogged roads, dusty, busy and genuinely unappealing. Thankfully I'm not here for the city, I'm here for the lake.
Lake Titicaca
Full day tour to the famous floating reed islands of Uros followed by a two hour boat ride to Taquile island, famous for its unique weaving art.
 |
| Lake Titicaca |
Uros was much more interesting than I expected. Although the islanders now depend on tourism, the tiny huts , around 10 on each reed bed) are still occupied, as evident by the smell! The indigenous people live over 42 of these floating reed islands, now provided with power by solar panels.
 |
| Floating Islands |
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| Reed houses. Still permanently occupied, solar power now provides electricity |
They speak Quechua rather than Spanish and seem fiercely proud, keen to demonstrate skills learnt since ancient times. We were taken from one island to another one of the yellow ceremonial canoes, touristy, yes, but all rather fun in a definitely original setting.
 |
| Floating islands in setting sun. Colourful canoes are communal reed boats |
Then onwards for a two hour boat ride across the world's largest navigable lake to Taquile island, 45 Kms from Puno. 2000 people still live in this incredibly isolated place. The textile art and weaving practice here is unique, protected by UNESCO, but the intricate patterns too complicated for me to understand.
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| Taquile Island |
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| Taquile main square. Only 2000 people live here, as it's so remote |
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| View from Taquile |
Lunch was thrown in with the tour (which cost all of 20 quid), in the isle's only restaurant overlooking the shimmering blue waters below. Quinoa soup plus, in my case a sad looking omlette. The locally caught trout was the main dish for the other 10 people...which gave me enough energy for the hours trek across the terraced, arable landscape, past grazing alpacas, sheep and llamas, to catch the boat back.
 |
| Quinoa soup for lunch |
The sun was setting over the Uros islands as Puno came into sight. Great day in great company, alongside fellow tourists from all over everywhere. Surreal to see how different these ancient indigenous people are physically, I literally towered over them.
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| Heading back to Puno |
And yes, I did genuinely believe in their stated desire to maintain their heritage and traditions, and they are using tourism as a way to do just that, so good for them! Happy to help by my visit 😀.
Lovely photos - the 'banana-like' canoes give the size of the reed huts! I was worried by your 'vice like headache' - that's definitely more than an apologetic 'sorry I can't make it for dinner, I've got a bit of a headache.'!! But you look great in your photos and I love your comment about tourism assisting in enabling people to maintain their indigenous traditions in a 'modern' world. Thanks for the blog and see you in May.xx PS we have just had 2 consecutive sunny days -wow!
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