Late evening bus to La Paz, colloquially the highest capital city in the world; actually Bolivia's capital is Sucre. But I already sense Bolvians take little notice of anything official.
An 'interesting' ferry crossing involved the minibus on one boat and us on another, very tiny low in the water boats, chugging along under the stars. Magical in its own way, esp when safely on the other side and reunited with correct bus.
Arrive very late into what seems a vast heaving metropolis. Bus unloads me outside a party hostel, but to my immense relief I am directed to the BnB section opposite. Quiet..ish. nothing here is calm, I guess.
La Paz
Day 1.
Hostel guests get free beer, BnB'ers get free breakfast, suits me! Fuelled by eggs, juice, and many coffees I set out nervously into the bustle outside to find the 'redcap' free walking tour which had been highly recommended.
Finally located the right square just in time. I now know roads are not signed, helpful, not, but locals are very helpful. No one smiles, it's not the Bolivian way, yet if I initiate conversation everyone joins in with gusto, albeit fast Spanish gusto.
Walking tour was a blessing. Guides, we had two as La Paz is generally regarded as not terribly safe so they shepherd us like sheep, spoke fluent English. For three hours we walked the highlights.
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| La Paz street art |
Rodriguez market
Vibrant street market , literally miles of food, drink and anything under the sun.
Witches market
Stalls selling ritual icons for the ancient Aymaran belief. Dark arts, superstition, still believed to be practiced ' underground' . Decidedly creepy...
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| Offerings for pachamana |
San Francisco church/plaza Murillo
Gorgeous cathedral, beautiful tree lined government square, where we were revealed with tales of corruption, scandal and Bolivia politcs. Current PM is generally referred to as 'the Bolivian trump' thanks to a history of bizarre statements.
The 'backward clock' which dominates the square is 'the clock of the south'. It's a mirror image of an traditional clock , originally intended to represent the southern hemisphere but physically it isn't accurate, something to do with sun/shadow, apparently!
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| The backward clock |
However, it's become an important symbol for Bolivia, where the two main indigenous groups, Aymaran and Quechua, view the past as in front of them and the future behind.
Sol y Luna market
Lunch. An advocado sandwich the like of which I have never before experienced, moist advocado topped with cheese, eggs, onion and tomato for ridiculously cheap price of 5 Bolivianos (100 is £10).
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| The most amazing advocado roll ever! 5 bolivianos |
The tour finished with free alcohol, the national rum. Emboldened by a swig I invited myself along with a charming Swiss couple who knew the city a little and were keen to try the cable cars.
Telefonica
The Telefonica is La Paz's main transport, cars sway overhead day and night. It's absolutely amazing (as long as you don't have vertigo) . Once we negotiated the stations/ tickets, time to sail high over the sprawling buildings below, right on up to the highest neighbourhood of El Alto.
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| view from the cable car |
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| Me, scared, of course not , really! |
The Sunday flea market was in full swing, one of the largest in south America if not the world. We risked the local fruit tea as we pushed a path through only a minute section of this massive market, absorbed in smells, sounds and sights of true Bolivia life.
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| Local fruit tea |
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| Petticoat stall in the market. Traditional dress involves many petticoats to widen the hips, thin people are very unfashionable here |
The views are breathtaking, as were we. At nearly 4000 metres anything here in La Paz is hard on the lungs, even the locals wheeze merrily going uphill.
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| La Paz from El Alto |
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| Mountain View |
Safely back in the valley city centre I finished my first day in la Paz with a welcome coffee with my new found friends. Exhausting but exhilarating, I do so love cities😁.
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