Easter Sunday.

Awoken at dawn by fireworks owing to local custom of blowing up effigies of Judas on every corner. I'd already decided not to go to watch, being from Lewes it didn't feel necessary 😁.

Instead I enjoyed a leisurely breakfast, in peace, as local families staying here for the holidays were all out setting off firecrackers. A Easter phone call 'home' made my Easter Sunday day very special. Homesickness is my main problem, I don't feel lonely as such, I enjoy my own company, but I do miss my family so much.

There is an annual food and drink festival here which proved a necessary distraction. Churches and charities blend with local businesses to sell Peruvian cuisine and  holy week treats. Many tasters later, I was fit to burst, and sat contentedly  in the shade enjoying traditional music.

Food stalls selling holy week deserts at the Easter food festival

Food festival . My favourite. Fried rings covered in dulche leche . Gorgeous.

Peru cuisine, the purple drink is chicha

The ultimate finale to Easter here is Mass in the Cathedral. As I had joined in everything else, I wanted to do this too, but first had to persuade the security guards I was not a tourist. Well, obviously, I am, but the rule is no tourism during mass, not no  foreigners, so I knew I could attend. In theory. In practice, unlike the welcome I had received elsewhere, the security guards were unwilling to allow anyone non local in. Another family and I stood our ground, politely and reverently, until he relented and ushered us into a pew.

The Mass was truly beautiful, organ music soared to the rafters, choirs sang, and thanks to childhood memories I could remember the sequence, if not the Spanish, of the service. The hour passed in a haze of candles, incense and ceremony. Afterwards as the archbishop blessed the congregation row by row, his smile  made me feel genuinely welcome.

However, despite my incredible experience spending Easter here in such a deeply religious place, I remain an agnostic. Not an atheist, although I have no idea about God(s) , I will accept a sense of something, some greater power. I am truly grateful therefore that those with faith embraced my presence, it has been a real privilege.


Monday

The city has returned to normal with a vengeance. Today the dawn chorus is honking car horns and the air is full, not of incense,  but of engine fumes.

Fighting through the frenetic traffic is a shock after the blissful calm of the holiday weekend. To escape I climbed high above the centre to the Yanahuara Mirador with its scenic view of towering volcanoes. Then back to push through the hoards at the enormous central market. I've paused at the numerous street vendors and peered in yet more churches.

Volcanoes in the distance

Central Market

and the traditional Tourist ware stall

Now I m sitting for the last time relaxing in this beautiful courtyard garden. This is my final day here.  Tomorrow I leave for Puno, at the unearthly time of 5 am, then I make my way onwards over to Boliva. From now on I'm travelling at a much faster pace. I have thoroughly enjoyed Arequipa, I have seen the city and its people at their best and it has certainly been an Easter to remember.