Bolivia to Peru

Dawn  departure from la Paz.  Ten minutes out, bus grinds to a halt after protests close the main road out of city.

Bolviahop driver decided to go around, via gullies, marshes, fields, rivers, past farms and gravel pits...all very surreal. We nearly got stuck in a drainage ditch, but much revving later we were off again.

Lunch stop in Copacabana before crossing border back to Peru and change of bus to Peru hop.

Onwards as dusk sets over lake Titicaca, truly  stunning views to distract from my already sore bottom.

On the bus at sunset

Dinner stop in Puno, or in my case a bag of nuts and a walk amidst the evening crowds.

Finally arrived in Cusco at 7 am. 24 hours on a bus. Sleep...sort of, now and then.  As night buses go though, Bolivia/Peru hop do their best, and thankfully I have no altitude issue so feel simply, just plain exhausted.


Cusco

I have no idea what day it is anymore, hence headings not dates!

Cusco by walking

First impressions of Cusco: it's splendid architecture, colonial buildings, tree lined plazas, it took my breath away.  Coming from the wastelands of Bolivia, it seemed western by comparison, Starbucks and MacDonalds , carefully concealed in heritage buildings, this being a UNESCO site, ply their wares, as do hawkers everywhere.

Cusco Cathedral

A free walking tour, the in thing in south America, was in order, although walking wasn't easy after so long on a bus.

Inca cross, clearing showing Cusco shape , hence the name, 'puma' city, indicating the centre point.

I've done two, tracing the ancient Inca walls still evident within the historic centre, sampling generous jugs of juice in local markets, learning the history of the city.

Free walking tour...these dogs always follow this guide, they're wild but well fed by the city restaurants.

In Cusco, where the conquering Spanish took the Inca gold and literally built their churches on top of the Inca temples, I finally understand how these two cultures have learnt to coexist in contemporary society, to unite into one identity. Peruvians are proud of their indigenous roots, plus  their Spanish heritage. Cusco's rainbow flag demonstrates their belief in mutual tolerance.

Cusco flag. Representative of all nations

Everywhere is evidence of the fight to preserve and cherish the past. The surviving walls, damaged by fingerprints over the years, are now protected by a no touch order. Cobbled narrow streets are, at least in theory, traffic free, although in practice I've leapt for my life frequently.

It's a long way up these steps! Heading above Cusco town

Free pisco sours are on offer with each tour..and yes, I've accepted, that and chewing coca leaves like a local, have kept me on my feet, literally.

Every walking tour ends with a free pisco sour 😀

Yes, that is an 'alpaca' jumper, though at 20 soles (£5) I suspect it isn't the best wool 😀. But when in Cusco...

The hostal is exactly the same as always, some nights are quiet, some are not, there is a communal garden and the inevitable breakfast of eggs, bread and jam. I crave a good night's sleep but no longer expect to get one.  Free tea here though, every little bonus helps.

View over downtown Cusco from San blas area

Archeological wonders

A boleta tourista (pass) affords me entrance to many of Cusco's natural wonders and museums.  First stop: Saqsayhumana, 2 Kms above the town, up steep winding steps . Thankfully this hostal does good coffee, for a change, as I needed every mouthful of breakfast caffiene to climb up.

Saqsayhumana

Awe inspiring walls of stones. I'm not too hot on detailed, actual historic intricacies but I'm genuinely blown away by the sheer size, construction (nothing holds these together but gravity) and longevity of this beautiful place.

Stones are massive...nothing holds them together, no one knows how the Incas built these incredibly strong structures

Ancient Inca walls in Cusco. This is the famous 12 angle stone

Apparently, according to Inca oral history, Tupac Inca "remembered that his father Pachacuti had called city of Cuzco the lion/ puma city. He said that the tail was where the two rivers unite which flow through it, that the body was the great square and the houses round it, and that the head was wanting." The Inca decided the "best head would be to make a fortress on a high plateau to the north of the city", hence Saqsayhumana.

Worth the climb. Not busy either as it's not high season here, so easy to wander in peace between these vast ruins, drinking in the views.

From here it's a twenty minute walk uphill to the ancient wonder of Q'enqo. Enroute a group of teenagers insisted I share local ice cream with them, I suspect to them I am far more interesting (and amusing) than historic sites 😁

Local teenagers insisted I have a local icepop , their treat. Methinks they think I look ridiculous, it's the hair thing...

Q'enqo

Pre Inca site where archeological discovery unearthed an unground temple deemed to have been used for human sacrifice during the waki civilization. Nowadays people leave coins for luck on the altar. All rather creepy.

ite of human sacrifice at pre Inca site of Q' enqo

At this point, a stroke of luck. A tour group in a minivan had been visiting too, and when I asked their local guide for directions to the bus stop to travel the 8 Kms uphill to the temple of puka pukara, he offered me a lift! To be honest I'm not sure the tourists, from Poland, were entirely happy, but I was absolutely thrilled.

Puka pukara

Inca (possibly older) military site where red stones glow in the light, with stunning panaramic views of surrounding mountains.

Stones glow in the sunlight

View from Puka Pukara

Tambomachay

According to legend this was the official retreat for the high and mighty in the Inca empire, with its cooling fountains and blissful shady paths under the trees.

Inca ruler's 'holiday retreat' up in mountain at Tambomachay

By now I was shattered and a long way from Cusco. I could see it below....a local bus went past the site so I hopped on, it was going downhill so I hoped for the best. Sure enough 30 minutes later I was in the town. Ok, not quite where I'd hoped but folk are so friendly here I was happily pointed in the right direction until I found a recognisable landmark.

Cusco is magical, it's full of delights, expected and unexpected.  I love it.

He just kept following me...wearing his rainbow flag