Lima by walking

Literally!  The free city walking tour I joined took me the length and breadth of this city, from the favelas sprawling up the outlying hills, past splended palaces, colourful parks, gilded churches and into the trendy Barranco district.

First we had to tackle the buses from Miraflores to downtown. South American buses same as central America, hang on and hope! On the plus side the bus lanes move, unlike the rest of the traffic. 45 minutes later I'm in the 'historic' centre.

Historic is a misnomer. Thanks to Lima's propensity for earthquakes, the buildings are restorations, hence their splendid condition. The Cathedral spires loom above the main square, the Royal Palace dominates with its royal guard serenading songs from musicals. Seriously. The changing of the guard takes an hour each day accompanied by eclectic brass band choices.

The Cathedral

The buildings are predominantly yellow, the national colour of Peru, so odd ones such as the pink 'telegraph' office, now a gastronomy museum, have a quaint charm.  Unlike Havana, Lima's economic growth has allowed it to renovate and revitalise in what seems to be a very positive way.

The only pink building in a sea of yellow ones

Walking out from the centre we came to the edge of the favelas, the inevitable ghetto of any city.  Wisely, we stayed on the city side of a connecting bridge that spans the Rima river, which rushes beneath our feet in a sea of murk and muck.  Our group retreat from the disgusting smell, over to the old central train station, now a cultural centre, for fresh mango and shade from the intense heat . Trains still run but not, alas, for passengers. Pity.

Favela

Then to the pisco stalls and some very generous free tasting, hic,  before a break for lunch. In my case an enormous churro from the enterprising monastery. Stuffed with vanilla and drenched in sugar. Plus a litre of water to dilute the pisco!

Lunch

Then more buses back to Barranco, the hip district where street art lines the lanes and music pulses through the air.  Achingly trendy and clearly very expensive. The ever present vultures hover over our heads. In Barranco they have damaged one church so badly it is permanently being repaired.

Vultures on the church

Barranca Street Art

Huaca Puccllana

A genuinely historic site in Lima, the towering truncated pyramid from pre Inca times. Dating from 200 ad it's bookshelf like construction used unfired bricks designed irregularly to cater for earthquakes. Archeological surveys have found remains of human sacrifice (young women), offering to the gods, with homages from sharks (for the sea) to frogs (for rain!) plus  bodies buried in curious and curiouser ways. 

the fascinating...and genuinely historic..Huaca Puccllana 

Ancient Adobe brick construction survived since 400 ad, earthquake proof! Unlike modern Lima

Fascinating site thankfully now being protected from the encroaching developments.

Lima is a box of delights which I'm tucking into with relish. Three days in and my body, mind and spirit have just about reconnected after Sunday's jarring hyper leap over time zones and seasons.  My feet are killing me though 😊.

apparently the hairless dog is Peru's national breed? !